Mint Green Dream.

Subtitle – More Adventures in the Universe of Trouser Tailoring.IMG_8036

Last year I made a very exciting and significant purchase. I kid you not, this book has changed my life. It was not a cheap purchase, given that I had to get it shipped from the US but the sheer amount of information contained inside makes it worth it. There’s also just gold like the following:

PRO TIP: When sewing pants, sew in your underwear so you can fit them multiple times without having to get undressed.IMG_8053GOLD!

So after moderate success and some missteps with trying FCAs (full crotch adjustments) unaided, this book provided all the information I needed. And given I was using a new pattern I decided that it was as good a time as any to try out their ‘Fitting While You Sew Method’. (Short summary: you make any shaping elements like darts etc., partially sew up the crotch seam, the fit the pants – right sides out – to your body with pins and start making adjustments. Seriously – if you’re at all interested, buy the book!)

 

I used my second ever ‘indie pattern’, Simple Sew’s The Classic Trouser. I cut out the size 12 using adorable mint green fabric I purchased on TradeMe.IMG_8050There were not too many reviews of this pattern online, so using Pants for Real People (PFRP) I made the following adjustments:

  • Added A LOT of length to the crotch seam, deepening the back curve
  • Added a small amount of length to the top of the pant
  • Adjusted the back inseam so that the pants fit better under the seat
  • Added extra width at the side seams to allow for the fact that I don’t go in as much above and below the waist as a standard pattern allows for – I have a straight up and down (minus the seat) figure type
  • Adjusted the waist seam to allow for my higher, fuller right hip
  • I also hand sewed in the zip as I wasn’t using an invisible zip – this was just my own choice, nothing recommended in the book

*Disclaimer: these adjustments are not faults in the pattern, and would not be needed by others using this pattern. They are specific to my figure.

I seriously cannot tell you how happy I am with the fit of these pants! They are as near to a perfect fit as I have been able to achieve to date. And I know I will just be able to get better and better using the techniques in PFRP

IMG_8038

Look how beautifully those side seams are tracking, and – you can’t see this in the photo but – rear waist sits on my waist! No riding down at the back. Huzzah.

Advertisements

23 thoughts on “Mint Green Dream.

  1. Trousers. The hardest of all the garments to make to fit nicely, well done and I can image how many times they were tried on?
    Sometimes I’m not patient enough and have to leave it for a better mood day, and sometimes you just get it right! Congrats to you and future trousers!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Nicely done! You have done a good job fitting! I have just purchased that book for myself, plus their other one. I love having clothes that fit! I can’t count the number of times I tried on my pants/trouser muslin. I also had my tripod set up and took a photo EACH time so that I could see the changes I made with each alteration – that really helped!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. It makes such a difference! The whole crotch seam was a revelation for me… No more pants riding down at the back, and this is the first time I have been able to just hem my pant legs because I fit the issues around my different hip heights at the top of the pant. (Cue Hallelujah chorus!)

      Liked by 1 person

  3. They look great!! Well done persevering. I haven’t tackled pants for myself yet, but soon! (I cheated and cloned the pattern from my best-fitting pair of RTW pants…) And not that your pants aren’t awesome, but I couldn’t tear my eyes away from YOUR SHOES–I love them! 😉

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Haha! Thanks. And feel you on the shoes. I saw them in a shop at the end of season and I literally hunted the country until I found some. I have had them for about 3 years and can’t see myself ever getting rid of them. Perfect sandal / shoe combo!!

      Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s