Pants pants pants.

So after the last Papercut Pattern debacle, I am pleased to announce that we have forgiven and forgotten and that my new PP garment, the Guise Pant, and myself have registered for wedding gifts at Bed, Bath & Beyond.

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I really, really love these pants because, well, #pants and the cut, and the absolutely beautiful, forrest green, lightly felted, faintly striped wool from The Fabric Store that I have made them up in. Oh and, orange paisley pocket liners anyone?!

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I made my standard crotch adjustment, and a bit of the back in seam adjustment, and my right hip adjustment as per my Pants for Real People advice, using both their ’tissue fitting’ and ‘fitting while you sew’ methods (c.f. any other pair of pants I have ever talked about since 2015).

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Because of the relaxed fit I didn’t need to make as many adjustments to the rest of the pant and having cut a M, I had lots of room left after making my crotch adjustment so didn’t need to add room anywhere else.

IMG_8211This was my first ever fly front trouser and my second set of welted pockets. The fly front was a doddle, but the welted pockets have a gap which they shouldn’t. I measured and cut very accurately but now that I know the gap between the two openings, I know that I need to make the folds that cover the welt deeper. Not a major drama, but I do aim for as close to perfection as I can.

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For next time I would also add about 5cms to the leg length as these were pretty short (after my adjustments) and I needed to use cotton tape to hem them long enough. I think, on balance, I would also take a couple of cm out of the back to reduce the bulk, although as the fabric settles I may change my mind on that. And of course, if I was using a drapier fabric this may not be an issue.

The instructions are minimal and I do have a few gripes to note as a first time user of this pattern:

  1. No glossary to explain what they mean by terms like edgestitch. Not a biggie,  but a new-to-sewing person would be flying blind
  2. There would have been a lot of unfinished edges – for instance the inside back of the waistband which I finished with cotton tape – had I followed the pattern as per the instructions
  3. And lastly, when a pattern says Right Leg, as the sewer I assume “my right” like “stage right” not the right leg if I am looking at the garment as if worn by someone else. Now, maybe this is something universally understood by more technical sewers than I, but again #glossary

But, gripes not withstanding, now that I have worked this pattern once, I can see myself making it a number of times in the future in a variety of fabrics. And also, perhaps making a version with a fitted back rather than the elasticated back.

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These kinds of musings keep a gal warm at night. Wool pants keep her warm during the day.

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30 thoughts on “Pants pants pants.

  1. Kudos to you for tackling a pair of tailored pants! They look great on you. I used to make such garments “back in the day,” and I feel somewhat guilty that I don’t attempt pants/jeans when I see all these great projects from the online sewing community.

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    1. Thanks! I love pants, so I try and make them a lot. I think jeans will be on the list this year too, although I’m considering getting an over locker so I might wait until then to ensure a perfect finish.

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  2. I am a huge fan of making pants (probably because I know they will get a lot of wear, no matter what) and love this style. Great fabric, too. It was interesting to read your analysis of the process. I made a very similar pair from a Burda magazine although the issue number eludes me at the moment!

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  3. Beautiful fabric, I like that it creates a dark neutral base for an outfit, but is green instead of the more standard base-neutral of black. Fun but subtle twist on the expected.
    I totally agree about the left/right thing, if I were reading those instructions I’d picture the garment as if I were in it, not viewing it. Stage directions not house directions!

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    1. Yes, I love the dark non-black neutral thing too. Next pants on the block are an eggplant coloured wool gabardine.
      And glad it’s not just me on the directions thing.

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  4. Yuss! Aren’t these the bestest pants ever?! Love your woolly version, I made some in rusty cord which are fab but fraying on the inseam – cheap cord? 😦 Also gripes about length and right/left thing. Next time I will add some to the length and follow the pictures not the words! PS your welt pockets are really sharp, mine totally frayed at the edges, I think I cut the v too small?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks! Yes, looking forward to making some more. Yours sound delish but bums about the fraying. And glad to know I’m not the only one had had issue re the L&R thing and the length. The wool was great to work with and it was easy to do the welts as a result. They are pretty terrifying though and I can offer no thoughts as to why yours may have frayed. My brain cannot handle the welt as an entire concept, only in steps with a magical ending!

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