Spring Shirting

Here are some more things I have made recently, but not gotten around to photographing. After the success of my two Named Clothing Quinn Shirts, I had the shirt bug and also, two other patterns to try.

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The first was the Papercut Meissa Shirt which my sister gave me the pattern for, she also gave me the gorgeous green, pink and purple poly cotton I made it from. The buttons and thread were all from stash so that meant I spend the princely sum of $0 on this shirt.

Knowing Papercut’s ridiculous sizing, I cut the S but graded out to the M through the shoulders – which had worked great for me with my Quinn Shirts. A waste of time here, as I was an S all the way, so I took larger seams through the shoulders to – sort of – even it out.

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I fussy cut my keister off, making sure the yoke and shoulder details feature blooms and the same with the collar. After the pointed collar of the Quinn, this rounded collar (although lovely to look at) was a bitch to sew. I find attaching two pieces together when one has been interfaced really hard and need to always try to remember to put the interfaced piece on the bottom. Maybe I just need to do some hand tacking. Thoughts? Despite my best efforts the collar did not turn out perfectly, oh well.

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I also should note that there is no placket on the cuffs, and I HATED the method of attaching and making the cuffs. The cuffs were also ridiculously tiny. I mean I have the wrists of a five year old boy and they JUST fit me…

So while I love this fabric, and I actually get a lot of compliments about this shirt when I wear it, it’s not a pattern I will be making again. Me and Papercut, just not the best mix sadly. It’s OK, I have Named to keep me warm at night 😉


Shirt two is the awesome Joker shirt by Oki-Style. I won this for one of my Indie Pattern Month prizes and it’s a freakin amazing pattern. Obviously draped and then flat cut to make the pattern, the seam lines on this are out of control. The other great thing is that your height + your measurements gives you your size, and this shirt was spot on.

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I initially planned to make this using fabric already in my stash, but because nothing is cut on the fold and the pieces are hella wide, I had to go and buy some plain white shirting from The Fabric Store.IMG_0027

The instructions are translated from German and quite hard to follow in places. I’m thinking of offering to do a better translation for her (it feels a bit Google Translate ish) but I worked it out in the end. (At one point I got a RTW shirt off the hanger to work out how the covered placket went together.

I couldn’t get the top stitching to work without the fabric bucking on the collar (see above re interfacing) so I just left it off. Perhaps in a fabric that wasn’t 100% cotton it might work better.

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Only downside, the curved hem. I can’t sew those on a machine without them puckering so I did it by hand. It was about two metres long!

My clever Mum suggested I should make another one in black for performing in and I think it would make a fantastic addition to my Cabaret capsule I’ve been working on (SWAP). If I could find a good black shirting with a sheen or sparkle, then it would be a 100% done deal.

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18 thoughts on “Spring Shirting

  1. That oki shirt is so cool, what great design details! It looks fabulous on you too. I struggle with the fit in Papercut patterns but I love your shirt with its teeny tiny cuffs.

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  2. Two gorgeous shirts! I agree with your mum – even an interesting black stiff silk would make an amazing performance Joker (I clearly know nothing about silks!). I think it’s the other way around for sewing interfaced to non-interfaced pieces: the uninterfaced piece goes underneath, against the feed dogs, so they help you control it. Janet Prey has a good few Craftsy classes about this kind of thing – they really improved my sewing.

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  3. I have had my eye on the Oki shirt for a very long time and never had the nerve to purchase, let alone sew.
    Thank you so very much for your make – not only does it look fabulous (way better than the website version) but you look fab wearing it too. I suppose I now have no excuse – oh wait – I don’t have any suitable fabric……..

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  4. Both shirts are stunning! I have made the meissa shirt making a slit in the sleeves because I don‘t like that you can‘t fold them up. Your white blouse is just a perfect garment! I would always interface the undercollar. I sign the seamline at the collar point with a pen and sew along that line. Then I press the seam open with the help of a wooden tailor‘s board. Then I grade the seam, I don‘t clip it. I then Turn the collar and press the collar from the undercollar making sure the seam would show up. This way I mostly get a lovely result.

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