Subtitle – More Adventures in the Universe of Trouser Tailoring.
Last year I made a very exciting and significant purchase. I kid you not, this book has changed my life. It was not a cheap purchase, given that I had to get it shipped from the US but the sheer amount of information contained inside makes it worth it. There’s also just gold like the following:
PRO TIP: When sewing pants, sew in your underwear so you can fit them multiple times without having to get undressed.GOLD!
So after moderate success and some missteps with trying FCAs (full crotch adjustments) unaided, this book provided all the information I needed. And given I was using a new pattern I decided that it was as good a time as any to try out their ‘Fitting While You Sew Method’. (Short summary: you make any shaping elements like darts etc., partially sew up the crotch seam, the fit the pants – right sides out – to your body with pins and start making adjustments. Seriously – if you’re at all interested, buy the book!)
I used my second ever ‘indie pattern’, Simple Sew’s The Classic Trouser. I cut out the size 12 using adorable mint green fabric I purchased on TradeMe.There were not too many reviews of this pattern online, so using Pants for Real People (PFRP) I made the following adjustments:
- Added A LOT of length to the crotch seam, deepening the back curve
- Added a small amount of length to the top of the pant
- Adjusted the back inseam so that the pants fit better under the seat
- Added extra width at the side seams to allow for the fact that I don’t go in as much above and below the waist as a standard pattern allows for – I have a straight up and down (minus the seat) figure type
- Adjusted the waist seam to allow for my higher, fuller right hip
- I also hand sewed in the zip as I wasn’t using an invisible zip – this was just my own choice, nothing recommended in the book
*Disclaimer: these adjustments are not faults in the pattern, and would not be needed by others using this pattern. They are specific to my figure.
I seriously cannot tell you how happy I am with the fit of these pants! They are as near to a perfect fit as I have been able to achieve to date. And I know I will just be able to get better and better using the techniques in PFRP
Look how beautifully those side seams are tracking, and – you can’t see this in the photo but – rear waist sits on my waist! No riding down at the back. Huzzah.
I’m totally impressed- pants befuddle me!
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So many fitting points – they are very taxing. But for a gal who lives in slacks, there’s not time for slacking off around getting it right! (And the expert help is always useful.)
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Trousers. The hardest of all the garments to make to fit nicely, well done and I can image how many times they were tried on?
Sometimes I’m not patient enough and have to leave it for a better mood day, and sometimes you just get it right! Congrats to you and future trousers!
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I think at last count I fit them 15 times! Having worn them now for about 4 weeks I know where I over or under compensated. By the end of this year I aim to have it licked!!
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Yes, well done for being so patient! I have mostly avoided making trousers so far but I might have to check out PFRP, esp with advice like sewing in your undies! Yours look great – top job!
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Thanks heaps! Trousers are my Waterloo. I will not surrender (I may be mixing historical metaphors there…)
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Nicely done! You have done a good job fitting! I have just purchased that book for myself, plus their other one. I love having clothes that fit! I can’t count the number of times I tried on my pants/trouser muslin. I also had my tripod set up and took a photo EACH time so that I could see the changes I made with each alteration – that really helped!
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It makes such a difference! The whole crotch seam was a revelation for me… No more pants riding down at the back, and this is the first time I have been able to just hem my pant legs because I fit the issues around my different hip heights at the top of the pant. (Cue Hallelujah chorus!)
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It’s a great surprise when it all works out, isn’t it!
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Pants are my nemisis as well. I bought the Pants for Real People for my kindle and it certainly has a wealth of information.
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It really is the way to go!
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They look great!! Well done persevering. I haven’t tackled pants for myself yet, but soon! (I cheated and cloned the pattern from my best-fitting pair of RTW pants…) And not that your pants aren’t awesome, but I couldn’t tear my eyes away from YOUR SHOES–I love them! 😉
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Haha! Thanks. And feel you on the shoes. I saw them in a shop at the end of season and I literally hunted the country until I found some. I have had them for about 3 years and can’t see myself ever getting rid of them. Perfect sandal / shoe combo!!
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look at all those likes – a perfect pair of pants appeals to all!!! xx
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Oh yes!!
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Those pants are just to die for! Thanks for sharing about the book – having embarked on the perilous path of sewing trousers it seems like I should have this book.
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Yes, do it! It’s a lot of info but it demystifies the fitting process.
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And, thanks! I’m very happy with my trou. 😊
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The fabric & style are gorgeous! Making pants scare the hell out of me.
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With a few tips, it’s actually not hard. Once you get your head around basic fit points it’s demystified. The book is so good for that.
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These look great – love the fabric you’ve used!
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Thanks Hannah! Vintage fabric is the best 🙂
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