Bias cut cami 1/3

Here I am again! Can you handle it?!


Aaaaaanyway… After deciding to do SWAP last year, I knew it was unlikely I would finish within the timeframe and actually I could care or less. It was just a really useful way to identify and fill a wardrobe gap. Finally, here is the first in my series of 3 bias cut camisole tops (you may recall that I started it quite a while ago!). These are for under jackets, of which I have a few lovely evening iterations.


I used some forest green chiffon that my sister got for next to nothing second hand somewhere. The remainder of which will be made into a skirt for my SWAP also. (It looks like it has lots of marks on it in these photos, I assure you, it doesn’t IRL.)


I used this nightgown pattern I had in my stash and double layered it. I made view C and ignored the lace inserts. The chiffon moved all over the place (to be expected) and even when I left it hanging and had my Mum help with cutting the hem the chances of getting it even were slim to none. ‘None’ was the winner on the day. (But the hem does look more even than in these photos I promise!)


I ummed and ahhed about stabilising the neckline and in the end I made some bias tape out of the fabric and used it through the neckline. I was worried the fabric might pull with the weight on it. Now I wish I hadn’t, it kind of won’t sit flat. Whatever. Wearable muslin for the win.

I also used a rolled hem foot at my sister’s to do the hem. Now, great finish except they won’t work through the side seams, which now look like a cat chewed them. None of this is a huge concern as the top will be tucked in mostly and you can’t really tell unless you’re close up. However I certainly would appreciate any tips for rolled hem finishes on chiffon if any of you clever people have them?


Next time I make this I will make the points on the top shallower so the neckline sits as a little more of an even curve. I thought I might raise the underarms a little too, but my sis didn’t think so. Any thoughts from interested parties?

Next iterations will be in silver satin and black burn out silk. I was glad to use the fabric I cared least about first to work the kinks out!


Outfit deets: (I had just come from doing some modelling for a friend’s photography assignment, hence the inside shots with lots of make up and crazy post-shoot hair!)

  • Jeans – bought from some chain store in Holland many years ago. I will wear them until they fall apart to at least do justice to their fast fashion status.
  • Black pumps – made in Italy, bought a number of years ago at a boutique shoe store.
  • Usual jewellery

35 thoughts on “Bias cut cami 1/3

  1. It looks good in the photos.
    I’ve done a lot of rolled hems – used to alter bridesmaid / prom dresses – I think the trick is to use zigzag not straight stitching and to cut away a lot of the seam bulk where it will roll

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Scary, scary chiffon… But you’ve definitely conquered it! I can’t say I can tell anything about the hem from the photos — it looks fine. And I really love this shade of green. Hmm… maybe I should stop putting off making a cami πŸ˜‰

    Liked by 1 person

    1. They are such useful pieces – do it! Red mentions the Ogden cami in a comment and that seems like a great pattern if you don’t have a nightgown pattern to hand πŸ˜‚thanks for your kind words!


  3. I can’t see any of the ‘faults’ you point out, it looks like a success. Do you need to finish the inside of the seams in your bias cut top? Sometimes cutting a wide seam allowance and leaving them raw works.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Oooohhhhh! Thanks for the tip. Didn’t know that. An a compulsive seam finisher. And thanks for your kind words. It’s good to know that it it’s just a case of being over critical of my makes!


  4. 2 layers of chiffon?!? O_o You are fearless! The color of this cami is so pretty!! It looks really lovely on you. And I could see it pairing well with a lot of other colors, which is always nice. That burnout silk sounds ❀ ❀ and I can't wait to see that one!

    (I LOL'd at the "lots of makeup" comment, because you look like you barely have any on! πŸ˜‰ )

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Fearless? Stupid? Such a fine line! Reminds me of that song lyric: Fools rush in where angels fear to tread! I’m looking forward to the next few versions too. Just have a few pieces on the block to finish first.

      Liked by 1 person

  5. This reminds me of the oh-so-popular True Bias Ogden Cami – I was surprised to see it’s a Vogue! This looks awesome and you handled the fabric so well! I can’t wait to see the silver satin version… we might be twins because I just finished a silvery-blue silk Ogden Cami. Great minds think alike! πŸ˜‰


    1. Great minds indeed! Is the Ogden cut on the straight or cross grain? I like the Ogden but am cheap and thought: this pattern will do! I’m looking forward to the silver one too. It will be a bit easier to deal with too!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. It’s on the straight grain – I actually just finished sewing another one right now!

        Hey, cheap ain’t bad, especially when you have such a good knock-off! Although I probably wouldn’t call Vogue a knock-off… πŸ˜‰

        Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks for the tip! I will look this up. Plethora of projects on the go atm. Almost finished dress for Alex’s sisters wedding, then on to more tops and SWAP projects! Satisfying!


  6. I tremble just thinking about chiffon! I like my rolled hem foot actually, but it took me a long time to get the hang of it. I have to hold the fabric at an impossible angle or my machine eats it. It’s a bit nerve racking but when i get it right, the hem is nice. Love the swing of your bias cut top! Another winner!

    Liked by 1 person

  7. The cami will look great in satin and silk. (And how about a sequin fabric?) I think the underarm depth looks fine, you can pull it off and the shape looks great. Raising it will give a completely different look I think…

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I think for this I won’t do sequins for a few reasons:
      1. I have a sequinned blazer I will likely wear many of these with
      2. Sequins and underarms are not fund combinations
      3. I’m going for slightly lower key fabrics as I already have a very sequin heavy gig wardrobe. These are to fill the gaps for gigs when I am not on as big of a stage, or when it’s during the day, or a wedding or such.
      Thanks for the thoughts re the underarm. Also keeps it out of the stress sweat zone !!!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Ay…now you make me look differently at sequins… I hadn’t even thought about the underarm thing and sequins! I have not started fabric shopping yet for the Performance Sudoku I want to work on. That is a very valuable tip. Mmmmmm….now a sequined blazer….I know someone who might just LOVE that… I have been looking at pattern possibilities with interest in the back so when she is sitting at the piano with her back to the audience they have something to look at. Have you noticed Mc Calls 7513? Isn’t that gorgeous? And Vogue 1513 as a pianist’s dress. So many patterns so little time!!!

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Interest at the back is always an excellent consideration! I have an awesome set of denim tails that I wear for the piano sometimes. A bit like the McCalls pattern.
        Is the vogue the sheath with the ruffle? I struggle to sit well at a piano in a sheath unless it’s stretch. Something to consider too perhaps? (But I do move a lot when I play…)
        So many RTW outfits only have detail on the front.
        Sequins are wonderful but certainly can be hazardous to soft skin and pantyhose #protip πŸ˜‰


      3. Mmmmmm…she also said the sheath she has worn before (bottom right corner) pulled up at the knees while she played. Maybe I must just make the top part of the pattern, as a blouse. I think I am going to make a sequined top, using V9006. It is a sleeveless cowl top, princess seams, of which I will only make the centre front with sequins so it peeks out from the jackets. (She likes cowl tops.) I will make the cowl facing unsequined as well. But I demand my sequin moment, haha! Thanks a million for your tips!

        Liked by 1 person

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